The trek shoots up from the local village of Guner Das some 15 kilometers beyond Chilas and the jeep trek takes about 2 hours to reach the Jeep stop which is also the Diamoro Village in the middle of the North-western flank of Himalayas. The jeep trek is less scary and steep as compared to the one that leads to the Fairy meadows but is a longer one and pliable by jeeps and locally operating station wagons alike.
No fewer than 33 climbers lost their lives before the first successful assent from the Raikot side by Austrian Herman Buhl.
The most attempted routes from the Diamir side include the “Messner Route” aka “Messner Solo 1978” which constitutes to a relatively longer route to the summit starting from the base of the Diamir glacier and making a longer loop on the southern side. This route bypasses the hanging seracs at 6200m and crosses the Merkl Notch before reaching the top.
On June 21, 1962, Low, Kinshofer, Mannhardt, Sturm and Anderl reached Camp 4 at 7150m just around the Bazhin Basin and pushed for the summit the very next morning at 1 a.m.
Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara also chose the Kinshofer Route for the first successful winter ascent on Feb 26, 2016.
Mummery Rib is also one of the center attractions for climbers since the route has never been completed to the top. Italian Daniele Nardi successfully covered the Mummery Rib 6450m in 2013 but had to descend later because of climbing difficulties.
Mummery Route is one of the most direct routes to the top thereby also poses considerable difficulty with steep rocky ribs and little help for an easy climb. Mummery, 1895, wanted to reach the summit via this route climbing light with few provisions and some firewood which was found by an expedition 44 years later.
Diamir Face continues to be the pinnacle of human endurance with an ostentatious climbing history spanning more than 100 years. Lack of visitors to this difficult trek has kept it in serene and unspoiled condition, offering breathtaking sites and places.