Karakorums this year have turned out a little harsh on the climbers from all over the world and the heavy snowfall in the winters have denied success to several expeditions trying to summit the five 8000ers.
For the moment Nanga Parbat, on the southern side of the River Indus has been scaled successfully by English Rick and Sandy Allen. Cathy O’ Dowd, the first women to summit the Everest from both North and South, however failed to summit 8,125m Nanga Parbat, crossing over the Mazeno Ridge.
Meanwhile, Romanian stealth climber Zsolt Torok, who was hoping to bag the peak in a solo attempt from the Diamir Face, finally gave up following consecutive failed attempts and a bleak weather report ahead.
Canadian Loius Rosseau and his team of five sturdy climbers, all hoping to retrace the route followed by their long time compatriot and friend Gerfried Goschl and two other climbers who lost their lives in the winters expedition on Gasherbrum-1, have also abandoned the expedition citing heavy snowfall in winters.
They were swept away some 500m downstream by a sudden avalanche, fortunately however, no casualties were sustained.
Rosseau later said, “Too dangerous, too much snow this year. Never
seen so much snow! Too many hidden crevasses. We crossed many avalanche fields when going to camp 1. Last summer we could walk to camp 1 in less than 4 hours on an almost dry glacier. Now we have to wake up at 24h00 to start at 1h00 am only to get to camp 1”.
Rosseau was reportedly part of the winter expedition on G-1 alongside his friend Gerfried Goschl but had to skip the trip for some family problems.
He was also part of the successful G-2 Expedition last summer, again along with Goshcl and both have been planning a new route on G-1 for the first winter ascent.
Rosseau further added, “With the information I have until now here in BC, no team has managed to climb above camp 3 on Broad Peak, K2, G2 and G1. (Maybe one Sherpa on G2 from the Korean team, but I saw him with mask and O2 bottle in camp 1, poor guy, I think he had lungs problems after this push, I have no more details)”.