For some Tomek Mackiewicz is living in a complete state of denial. Yet for many others, he is perseverance personified. This Polish Diesel Engine has fought no fewer than six bone-chilling winters with the Killer and still refuses to give up.
Tomek Mackiewicz has a history of climbing Nanga Parbat with jaw-dropping low budgets reviving the vintage style climb and is the only man in history who will be attempting a winter climb on the same 8000er for the seventh time. He is all set to return to Pakistan with his long standing partner Elizabeth Revol to complete the Messner 2000 route this winter.
Sharing his upcoming plans with Pakistan Explorer, Tomek reiterated his long standing goal of completing what he started seven years ago.
“Plan is simple. We want to finish this route. And i want to connect Messner 2000 with Herman Buhl”. He said, “Alpine style, low budget, just two of us”.
Tomek and Eli left Diamir Base Camp last winter after their final summit push came to a sad end as they were refused a weather window despite staying on a high camp for a few days. Later on 26th February, Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon successfully summited the Killer for the first winter ascent thereby winding up a 30-year long battle for the first successful summit of Nanga Parbat. Tomek insists that he is not part of any race rather this is more of a personnel matter for him.
More celebrated climbers including Simone have often criticized Tomek for his reckless attitude, inexperience with high Alpine peaks and climbing with dangerously low budgets. But all this has seldom kept Tomek from attempting what may be suicidal for many. He survived all alone in a bivouac for more than a week on Nanga at more than 6000m bracing bad weather and climbed down later to startle rescuers who had already given up on him.
Eli, on the other hand, will also be coming back for her fifth attempt on the Killer. Earlier, she partnered with Daniele Nardi for the Mummery route and has made two attempts on Nanga with Tomek on the Messner 2000. Tomek insists that Messner 2000 is the only route which can be attempted in Alpine style on Nanga in winters.
Buhl was the first man to reach the Nanga summit in 1953 via the Raikot Face. Before Buhl’s successful ascent, 33 people have lost their lives trying to climb Nanga Parbat, rightfully earning her the pseudo “The Killer”.