_ One day is better than other; in winter season every moment counts on the 8000ers. Climbers must push through all challenges before the storm builds up again.
Last week Simone and Denis managed to reach C3 on Nanga Parbat despite extreme cold, the Russians made 7,000m on K2, Artur Hajzer's Polish team C1 on GI, and the international team pushed to an attitude of 6,000 meters on a route of their own before frostbite almost got to them.
The rush seems a good call. As per the forecasts the wind will pick up above 7000m starting tomorrow with increased snowfall mid week. Temperatures at height range 6500 - 7500 meters will range between 30 and 40 degrees below (F/C) excluding the wind chill. (for further details please visit the article section).
A blizzard is grueling the 8000ers in Pakistan but that doesn't stop the climbers striving for their winter summits. Simone and Denis headed back up on Nanga Parbat today, an airlift was done from K2 BC, and the team is at work on Gasherbrum 1.
The sun was sighted on K2 yesterday, but only because a violent wind blew the clouds away. Nick Totmjanin and a few co-workers who had gone up to fix the route above C2 were forced down in the windstorm.
A helicopter managed to land in BC and evacuate Vladimir Belous this morning. Descending without crampons from camp 1 in a hurricane last week, the climber sustained frostbite on four fingers according to Dr. Serguey Bychkovsky.
Simone and Denis left BC today in the hard wind with a carry to 6800m in hopes of spending the night in camp 2. Expedition photographer Matteo Zanga shot awesome pics of the climbers vanishing into the snowstorm.
International team leader Gerfried Goschl reached BC at 5,000 meters on foot 2 days ahead of plans.
"As the weather looked pretty good for winter conditions and we felt fit, Cedric Hahlen, Darek Zaluski, Tamara Stys, Nisar Hussain and I went on a scouting trip right on the day after arrival," Gerfried reported. The group carried ropes and gear up to 5650 meters.
Last day Alex and Carlos aimed to reach 6,000m during the next working shift.