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Climbers pushed to 7000m on K2 and 6000m on G1

_ Gasherbrum I

The climbers on G1 have been speedy right after their arrival in BC. Alex and Carlos carried fixed ropes up to 5800 meters on Tuesday. Gerfried Göschl’s group went after the next day but had to turn back at 6,000m due to high risk of frostbitet,  They said, “We left the gear cached up there and fled back down.” The next planned round is for C1 at 6,200m.

On Friday Adam Bielecki from the Polish team went up with high altitude porters Ali and Shaheen to set up C1 at 5,930m. Hidden crevasses and weak snow bridges reportedly made for a dramatic climb. Adam said the men fell through several times and once had to descend 40 meters into a huge crevasse and walk along its bottom for 300m before finding a way out.

Pitching C1 was, “a constant fight against frostbite” Adam said about the cold coupled with hard wind. Artur and Janusz took the next shift, expecting to spend a night in C1 and scout the route to C2.

K2

Rope by rope, the Russians forge their way up K2. Andrew Mariev and Alex Bolotov reached 7000m while Nickolay Totmjanin’s men left BC on Saturday with the mission to establish camp 3.

K2 forecast by Karl Gabl

Elena Laletina of RussianClimb provided a fresh forecast for K2 by Austrian weather wizard Karl Gabl:

The main axis of the Jet-stream is still situated in Southern Pakistan (westerly component) and over Nepal in a South-westerly direction.

Wind :
29.01. 30.01. 31.01. 1.02. 2.02.
6500m SW25 SW40 SW25 NW40 SW45 kph
7500 m SW55 SW60 SW45 NW80 SW80

Wind mainly from Southwest, exclusive on Sunday (29th) for a few hours from Northwest. After the 1st of February wind will get stronger and stormy over 7000m..

Snowfall:
The 1st of Feb should be dry, the other days have weak signals for light snowfall, from 3rd to 4th February snow fall will increase a bit.

Temperature: free atmosphere
29.01. 30.01. 31.01. 1.02. 2.02.
6500m -31 -31 -33 -28 -28 °C
7500 m -38 -41 -35 -36 -36

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