She said, “We’re on the Mazeno ridge! Camped @ 6800m, hot clear morning now windy, misty. Pressing on for Mazeno peak tomorrow. Deep snow a chore.”
The Ridge has some eight 7000 meter peaks on it and has never been climbed all the way to the summit before.
Meanwhile, Louis Rosseau and his team consisting of Rob and Jacob have now successfully pitched Camp-2 on the Gasherbrum-1 and claim to have established first fully operational camp-2 on the 8000er.
Rosseau is attempting to follow the route taken by his longtime friend Gerfried Goschl who lost his life during the winter expedition on the mountain.
“We actually are the first team to have made a true Camp 2 on G1,” Rob added.
But the price for the feat turned out to be a contentious one as the team stumbled on two deadly crevasse falls in the attempt.
Rod shared the details of the ordeal faced by Jacob during his climb to Camp-3:
“The snow beneath him suddenly gave way and he plunged down 10-15ft (3-4 meters) into a huge crevasse, before Louis was pulled toward but stopped his fall (we looked later and could not see the bottom of the crevasse–maybe 100ft+ deep?). It was a tense moment to say the least. Jacob was able to get his ice axe out and climb up the side of the inside of the crevasse while Louis helped pull him out with his jumar. That’s why we’re constantly roped together up there!”
For the moment, weather has followed just what the Met wizard Dr. Karl Gable has predicted but the conditions are bound to deteriorate in the coming weeks as the Monsoon makes her debut in the Karakorum for the year.
Canadian Al Hancock is also on the prowl at the adjacent Broad Peak and has already pitched Camp-2 on the 8000er. He is accompanied by Pakistani High Altitude Porter Aziz, who was also part of the Russian K-2 Winter Expedition in December.
There is no news from Romanian Zsolt Torok who was climbing the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat after he had to return to Base Camp following a 300metre Avalanche on the “Killer Mountain”.