Winter Mountaineering in Pakistan swings back in action with 2012-2013 Hungarian-American Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition


Season is warming up for another brilliant rally as the Winter Mountaineering is about to kick off in the rugged and treacherous Karakorum this year.

Out of the 14 eight-thousanders in the world, there are only four peaks left which have not been climbed in the winters as yet, all four of them standing tall in the Pakistani territory including the second highest K-2, Gahserbrum-1, Broad Peak and the ninth highest and one of the deadliest, the Nanga Parbat.

Expedition teams from all over the world are shaping in order to conquer the mighty peaks which have denied summit to some of the renowned climbers in the world. Gasherbrum-2 was the first 8000er successfully summited last year by Italian Simone Moro along with his expedition members Cory Richards and Denis Urubko, marking the first successful winter ascent of any 8000er in the Karakorums.


This year, a consortium of world-class climbers and mountaineers from USA and Hungary will be attempting to scale Nanga Parbat in the traditional style. 2012-2013 Hungarian-American Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition will kick off somewhere in December and will be led by Dávid Klein while Zoltan Ács will be filming the expedition.

The Expedition declared their intent via email, “to summit the world’s ninth tallest peak Nanga Parbat (8125m) this winter. Furthermore, we intend to accomplish this by fair means, eschewing the use of bottled oxygen, high altitude Sherpas and other such support.”


Nanga Parbat is pitched on the southern side of the River Indus and is the western-most offshoot of the mighty Himalayas in the region. One of a near-successful winter attempt of the peak was made in the year 2010 when legendary Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki had to abandon the mission after severe frostbite on his face at an altitude of 7200metres on the Raikot Face. They were nick-named “The Ice Warriors” by the National Geographic Magazine.

Moro along with Urubko returned to tame the mighty Nanga Parbat last year but also had to suffer a painful retreat after waiting endlessly for the weather to improve.

The weather-window they hoped for never came along.