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Pakistani climber claims the first local ascent of the Malika Parbat North Face, Alpine Club declines to accept the same

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Ahmed, Mujtaba, one of the sturdy Pakistani climbers, successfully summitted the North Peak of Malika Parbat, the Queen of the Kaghan Valley, marking the first Pakistani ascent of the same from the North.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan, however, is not ready to consider it as the first Pakistani ascent as the official website has stayed away from accepting the claim.

36-year-old Mujtaba, who has attempted to scale the 5,235m peak twice before in 2009 and 2011, finally made it to the top on August 31st, 2012 leading a four-member expedition. The expedition comprised Ahmad Mujtaba, Ahmad Naveed, Kamal Haider and Saqib Ali.


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The Executive Member for the ACP, Karrar Haideri argued that the climbers did not apprise the ACP before their ascent so their claim cannot be confirmed by any third party.

He said, “There is no information of mountaineers conquering the Malika Parbat. Since the mountaineers did not give any briefing of the mission before the ACP like all expeditions do before and after climbing, we cannot confirm their success”.

This not only speaks about the inefficiency and incapability of the ACP which has not been able to make it mandatory for all climbers to brief the club about their contemplated attempt but also shows negligence on part of Mujtaba and his team who should have apprised the club beforehand.


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Malika Parbat, is one of the highest mountain of the Kaghan Valley and marks the culmination of the high rising flanks of the western off-shoot of Himalayas. The mountain is hailed as one of the most difficult 5000er carrying dangerous crevasse regions and sheer vertical ascents on all sides. The mountain rises from the legendary Lake Saif-ul Malook, adding to it the splendour that can hardly be compared with any peak in the world.

The climbers pitched their Base Camp at 4000metres and established Camp-1 at 4600m on August 29th. Using the Front-Pointing Technique, the team roped their way up negotiating dangerous crevasses and steep icy slopes.

The team ascended the summit at 7:12 am on 31st August and spent 45 minutes on the summit to view and photograph the scenic lower Himalayan Naran Mountains, spotting Nanga Parbat in the distant.


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“You have to reach the top before 11am in the morning before cloud covers the peak, completely blinding the climbers or after 3pm when the skies open up,” said Ahmed Mujtaba explaining some of the challenges to the summit.

“The day was crystal clear. We spent about 50 minutes taking pictures and making video recordings”.

British climber Norman Noris first acsended the North Peak in the year 1967.


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1 reply »

  1. Sir i am really excited to know about ur expedition may i get dome pics or video about ur tour of malika parbat bcoz i have also seen it from the base camp of ansu lake i was very inspired and captivated by Malika parbat