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Beast of the East vs. The Ice Warrior: Italian ace Simone Moro returns to conquer Nanga Parbat for the first Winter Assent 

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It was about the same time two years ago when Simone Moro and Denis Urubko were camped in the frigid Western Himalayas at the Base Camp of Nanga Parbat in hopes to conquer the Killer Mountain for the first time in winters.

Following his own doctrine for winter Himalanism, Moro waited patiently in his warm and embracing Base Camp, erected from stones and straw rooftop and kept a close watch for the right weather conditions to make their charge.

Jotting down data on his portable, solar-chargeable laptop, coordinating with the weather wizard Karl Gable in Switzerland, cross checking his route to the peak of the 8,125m Nanga Parbat, Moro’s wait never came to an end. The team of two left the Base Camp in February 2011 failing to conquer the mighty beast. 


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“Preparation, self-training, logistics and technology are vital supports for alpine projects like this one on Nanga Parbat. They make all the difference, as seen last year on the successful Gasherbrum II expedition. However, in the end, the relationship is between man and mountain; if nature doesn’t’t offer the perfect conditions to reach the objective, this doesn’t have to be considered as a failure, but as an experience for future projects,” reflected Simone Moro.

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Moro has now been reported to be returning to make yet another attempt to bag the mighty peak for the first winter assent. Nanga Parbat and K-2 are the only two 8000ers in the world which have not been climbed in winters. Despite several attempts by renowned mountaineers, Nanga Parbat has time and again refused climbers a free pass to the top. 

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Never climbed in winters, Nanga Parbat poses potential threat to climbers above 6500 meters. The wind speed at such high altitude at Nanga Parbat soars to a blistering 160k/h and temperatures drop down to -40 Celsius exposing climbers to instant frostbite. here to edit.


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​Moro is scheduled to announce his plan on November 28th in a press conference where he will also reveal the route to the peak and possibly his compatriots who will be accompanying him on the dangerous expedition. Urubko, who has been Moro’s partner in the successful 2009 Makalu Winter Expedition and again in 2011 in Gasherbrum-1 first winter accent, is likely to team up with Moro to tame the Killer Mountain.  

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