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Simone Moro to attempt the Nanga Parbat through the infamous Rupal Face for the first winter ascent

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Simone Moro finally unveiled his winter ascent of the Killer Mountain Nanga Parbat in a mega press conference at Monaco of Bavaria, Italy. Pitching for his second attempt of the 8,126m in winters, Moro also revealed his team of three climbers German David Gottler and his country mate Emilios Previtali, both of whom were a matter of surprise for the media men as Denis Urubko, Moro’s all weather compatriot in winter ascents was missing. 

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As if this was not enough, Moro took the crowd by storm when he declared his route to the top-the deadly Schell route on Rupal Face, known as the 10th highest elevation gains on earth in shortest distance. More than 4600m of steep and unforgiving granite structure challenges the mountaineers every year and many lose their lives in hopes of summiting the peak, let alone doing it in shearing winter winds and bone freezing temperatures. 

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Referring to his selection of route, Moro said:

“The Diamir until two months ago was closed, due to the terrorist attack, so I decided to change the slope although there had already built a bivouac (now used by shepherds) and a hospital. But these things do not give any guarantee of safety. Sometimes they can give rather annoying. So we’re going from Rupal, there is the way in preventive Schell. It’s tough. It’s the most logical, the least dangerous, is monstrously long because the base camp is only 3500 meters, is the highest wall in the world. From Diamir we left at least 4,000 meters. But do not deny that I want to assess the situation on the spot, if the way it was in dangerous conditions I would think of other solutions uphill”.


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The absence of the valiant Urubko resonated the conference room. To a question regarding Urubko’s absence Moro replied,

“He is afraid of possible terrorist attacks, after what happened this summer at the base camp of the Diamir, which killed 11 mountaineers. I tried to convince him, because we were staying at Nanga together two years ago, and the way he liked it. But he preferred to avoid, just as a matter of risk.  I’m really sorry for Denis.” 


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Moro admitted that due to the unpredictable security situation in the region, He will be escorted by an armed guard for the first time in his career. A proud conqueror of three 8000er’s in hardcore winters. Moro will be attempting the Killer Mountain for the second time. Rupal Face poses a unique challenge to the mountaineers worldwide and climbing this route in winters will test the mettle of the 46-year-old Italian ace. 


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