News

Three international expeditions to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat

Picture

The race to one of the esteemed mountaineering pinnacles yet to be achieved is back in the heat again as some of the most high profile winter climbers are gearing up to climb one of the only two 8000ers, K2 and Nanga Parbat yet to be climbed in winters. Given the notoriety and extreme difficulty in climbing these two giants in winters, the coming three-month-rally will test the nerves and fitness of the ambitious expeditions set to conquer Nanga Parbat between 25th December to 1st March- the official time frame for a successful winter ascent. 

Picture

Simone Moro & Tamara Lunger Expedition

Italian ace Simone Moro will be returning to make his third attempt of the peak possibly along with his Manaslu-2015 partner Tamara Lunger. The duo has remained tight-lipped about the revelation of their plans and the final announcement of their itinerary is still waited anxiously by mountaineering enthusiasts all over the world.
“In about a month and a half, we’re leaving for another winter experience in Pakistan. There will be time to talk about the where, how and on what mountains we go”. Said Simone on his Facebook page. 

Picture

​Simone’s last attempt of Nanga Parbat was back in 2013-14 when he teamed up with photographer David Göttler and Italian climber Emilio Previtali. The team patiently waited for more than two months in the Base Camp, aiming for the summit through the The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, with the Schell Route. Backed up with the last minute accurate predictions from the weather wizard Karl Gable, Simone is undoubtedly the most sound and experienced winter climbers to pitch for another attempt of the Killer Mountain. 

Picture

Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi, Ferran Latorre and Janusz Golab Expedition

Another winter-weathered expedition comprising of Spaniard Alex Txikon, Italian Daniele Nardi and Ferran Latorre and Pole Janusz Golab will be making an attempt for the peak with Pakistani high altitude mountaineer Ali Sadpara. The team has already announced their plans of taking the Kinshofer Route from the Diamir side.
“Just want to confirm we’ll go for Nanga Parbat (8.126m) in late December. The team this time: Ferran Latorre, Daniele Nardi, Ali ‘Sadpara’, Janusz Golab and me. Will again face the challenge following the Kinshofer Route in the Diamir Side. Thank you!” Alex mentioned on his Facebook page.

Picture

Tomek Mackiewicz and Elizabeth Revol Expedition

Tomek will be bustling with Nanga experience as he plans to make his sixth attempt of the ninth highest mountain along with compatriot Elizabeth who is also one of the most experienced female winter mountaineers in the world. This will Elizabeth’s third attempt for the peak on the Killer Mountain.
While Tomek, on the other hand, is the only human to have crossed/reached the 7000 meter threshold on Nanga in winters three consecutive times. His perseverance on Nanga parbat knows no bounds. 


Picture


“I am most effective climbing on my own, taking my own route and going at my own rhythm in small team alpine style. My attention isn’t distracted, I’m focused on specific actions and following my plan. I don’t think that this is selfishness, but something that allows a deeper responsibility and belief that controlling my own mind and intuition, undistracted by other human energy, and charged by nature and from the rock itself, I can be closer to reaching my goal. I also know myself well enough to know that I am most effective acting autonomously. This is how I am. I know what my motivation and own way is. I believe that the summit of Nanga can be reached in winter.” Said Tomek in an interview over his ambitious plan for Nanga 2015-16.

Northern areas of Pakistan were recently hit by a devastating 8.1 earthquake triggering widespread destruction in the country. The quake was preceded by heavy rain and snowfall in the northern regions increasing the possibility of harsh winters ahead. 

Categories: News