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Nanga Parbat first Winter Ascent finally in the offing after 30 years of failed attempts

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Stage is set for the biggest showdown of the mountaineering history of contemporary times as four of the resilient climbers are now in Camp 4 at 7200m on Nanga Parbat Diamir Face with excellent weather window for the coming two days. Spaniard Alex Txikon, Italian Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger and Pakistani Ali Sadpara reached Camp 4 today and are now resting and hydrating themselves for the summit Push.  

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​Alex teamed up with Simone just a few weeks ago after the departure of Tomek and Elizabeth and Adam Bielecki and the more disheartened Daniele Nardi. So far the results have been astonishing as both teams braced extreme snow fall and heavy blizzards both at the Base Camp and up on the mountain demonstrating their commitment to the first winter ascent of the mighty Nanga. They are now poised to achieve the impossible with historical span of no fewer than 30 years of failed expeditions. 

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​“Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are already resting and hydrating inside their sleeping bags in C4 (7.200m)”. Alex updated his status on the Facebook at 2000 Hours PST on 25th Feb. “Excellent job! Avoiding exposure to extremely low temperatures will set out for the summit at 5:30–6:00am (in Pakistan). Optimum wind conditions are expected for 26th night and will remain throughout 27th, but waiting until then would supposed to spend one ‘extra’ night in above 7.000m, and have discarded this idea”.

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Simone and Alex teamed up only after the departure of Daniele Nardi from the Alex’s camp and reportedly it has been one precondition put forward by Simone for the merger of two teams. Daniele experienced a 50m fall along the Kinshofer and has been dejected and demoralized stating that none of the team members including Alex and Ali came to help him out. Reportedly he also sent SOS signal at the time of his fall and it was observed at the Base Camp. 

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​This is the first time in several years that such optimum weather conditions are prevalent for the summit push while the climbers have also successfully reached camp 4 setting up a strong chance of summit. Crossing the Bazhin Basin along the Kinshofer Route,the team will have to cover a long distance for the summit. 

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Alex, Daniele and Ali were the only ones who attempted a summit push on March 13th last year and lost their way traversing over the point from where they had to attack the summit. They abandoned the expedition after the realization and returned to Base Camp. This year, the team is less likely to repeat the same blunder and summit Nanga for the first winter ascent. 

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