Denis Urubko at 6200m on K2
After series of complains about the Polish Expedition that he has been part of, Denis Urubko finally decided to bid adieu to the Polish Camp on Saturday and has barged on a mindless solo winter attempt of the “King”.
Since the beginning of the expedition on the earlier Cessen/Basque route, Denis has been repeatedly complaining on his blogposts about the slow performing Polish camp and had cast apprehensions on the real “intent” of the expedition. His departure from the expedition in his bid for the solo attempt has come as a huge setback for the Polish Camp, where the rest of the climbers are definitely not pleased.
Polish Base Camp
“Today, in addition to the planned exits, Denis Urubko independently, without notification to the leadership of the expedition, left the base to attempt an ascension to the top of K2 until the end of February” wrote Kryztoff Wielecki.
This was later followed by a damage control statement from the Base Camp; “Denis is a member of our expedition, and we must support his exit, despite the fact that he went AWOL,” Janusz Majer
Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko on reaching 7400m on K2 via Abruzzi
For the moment, the Polish Expedition has been successfully able to reach 7400m via Abruzzi Ridge courtesy primarily to Denis’ hardwork and relentless pursuing to open the route.
“Just imagine!, – I said to Adam. – Only five people were at such height on K2 in winter! You, Wielicki, Marcin, Petrek Morawski… well, and I again… could.
-Yes, I did this! – Adam laughed in the mask.” Denis wrote on his blog on reaching 7400m.
Adam working on House’s Chimney on K2
They have been lucky to discover good condition old Korean Ropes from the summer expedition and have utilized to cross over House’s Chimney all the way to tackle the dreaded Black Pyramid.
Adam Bielecki and Denis worked hard to establish Camp 2 and 3 on the route amid fierce blizzards and snowstorms. They later pushed camp-3 to another 100m up to achieve better acclimatization and altitude gain for the team.
Denis has long insisted that an official Winter Ascent can only happen until February and a winter ascent in March should not be considered an official Winter Ascent. This issue also popped up with his former climbing partners during their endeavors on Pakistani Karakorum and Himalayas.
If he plans to summit K2, solo and in February, he is definitely short of time.