Yet another fall and an even deadlier one, seems like the Gods on Gasherbrum want to send Simone and Tamara packing. Perhaps in wake of a hurriedly planned expedition it’s quite unlikely that with the stature Simone commands, they could have possibly skipped the essential details in planning the forage. This is not uncharted territory for Simone who has been here attempting this very peak in winters, but this year, he was not even allowed access to Camp-1.
The expedition has not been officially called off, but with the low spirits and bad injuries, it must be on the cards.
With plans to setup Camp-1 and spending the night, the duo was carrying dispatch with more than usual weight and finally after spending days in this labyrinth, jut when they managed to cross over the Icefall, the disaster happened.
“Approaching a crevasse I put myself in position as always to secure Tamara who first crossed it and then moved into the safety zone, 20 meters beyond the crevasse” Simone says on his Facebook. “Then it was my turn and after a split second, a chasm opened under my feet and I fell. Tamara suffered such a violent tear that she literally flew to the edge of the crevasse while I free falling upside down for 20 meters banging back legs and buttocks on the blades of ice suspended in the endless gut where I continued to descend. No more than 50 cm wide, in complete darkness.”
It took two excruciating hours for both of them to salvage Simone from the deadly dark chasm. A scenario like this is no less than a nightmare for a climber.
“Shivering and with a thousand bruises I hugged Tamara who was also crying from the pain in her hand. While I was climbing she had managed to organize a nice recovery stop and to secure me while I was climbing the 20 endless meters of smooth ice. We descended to base camp, which had already been alerted and reassured by radio.”
Meanwhile, Denis and team have been making steady progress and fell short of setting up camp-3 at 7000m on the classic south route on Broad Peak. After spending a couple nights in Camp-1 and Camp-2 at 6400m, Denis is all set to reach out to grab higher camps in coming days, though he returned to Base Camp because of a bad weather Intel.
“We did an hard job 🙂 We passed steep gulley touch 6700 almost shoulder of icy plateau. Bc tomorrow” writes Denis on January 18th on Facebook.