Mingma Gayle with his ambitious team of Sherpas and high altitude climbers from Pakistan have finally made their way deep into the Karakorum and are now heading towards the advanced Base Camp of the formidable K2. The expedition is led by Mingma from Nepal and Jon Snorri from Iceland. Other expedition members include Gao Li from China, Dentist Tomaz Rotar from Slovenia, Sir Baz Khan from Pakistan and a number of high altitude porters and sherpas both from Pakistan and Nepal. These are some of the top ranking mountaineers with vast climbing experience in the Himalayas.
“Getting ready for tomorrow, the first rotation, through the icefall up to ABC.” Writes Jon on his Facebook. “If everything goes well we will go further. Main thing is to make the way between BC and ABC. The day was beautiful here in BC.”
The expedition aims to climb up K2 via the normal Abruzzi Spur and have the permission up to February 29th to get the job done. The extreme conditions came slightly unanticipated and it took nine days for the team to reach Concordia.
“Hello to the World” Mingma posted on his Facebook on January 21st “Today we reached Broad Peak Base Camp. I had problem with my net but it’s fixed now and we will trek to K2 base Camp tomorrow. We had too much snow on our way so it took us more days fighting with snow to reach here.”
Meanwhile, Denis and Don are gradually gaining altitude on Broad Peak and have replenished Camp-2 with more supplies at 6400m. They are still struggling to reach the Icy Plateau above 7000m but extreme conditions and approaching bad weather has prevented them from doing so thus far.
“Ciao from BC.” Writes Denis on Facebook. “We fight 2km up today to icy terrace 6800 very bad condition as a mirror. We took some ropes out from slope than hurricane kick us back.
We did big job fix acclimatization trained and recognized condition of route in 1 day of any weather. Don have bad forecast for 4 next days”
Yesterday, the team trekked to K2 Base Camp for workout schedule and routine acclimatization drill and returned to Base Camp in the evening. They will now stay put in the Base Camp and wait out the bad weather spell for the next four days.
Simone and Tamara have decided to call it a day and will be returning to Italy after their near-death ordeal at the Gasherbrum Icefall. Simone was talking to Rock and Ice Magazine.
“Our injuries are minor, but they prevent us from climbing,” Moro said. “I will recover fast, but I think Tamara will need a couple months before she can climb.”