Denis Urubko and his team at Broad Peak are finally all set to launch their first summit push starting tomorrow January 29th.The team has been working diligently for hours between the camps fixing ropes and hauling supplies to Camp1 and 2. The team is currently in the Base Camp waiting for a clear weather window which is predicted to stay until February 2nd. If all goes well, and if the wind factor in particular allowed the team to march ahead, they are likely to reach the top on February 1st. Denis was talking to Montagna.TV.
“ I’m preparing the equipment for the summit. I’m ready to work and get to the top ” Denis said via internet message.
For the moment, the weather conditions are predicted to be ideal on February 1st and 2nd with clear skies and wind speeds at around 50km/h at maximum. Temperatures at the summit is predicted to be somewhere around -45 Celsius.
It is also important to note that from Urubko’s perspective Broad Peak and G-1 have never been climbed in winters as his winter deadline ends on February 28th while both Gasherbrum-1 and Broad Peak were climbed in March for the first time in winters.
“I guess that the period between 1st December and 28th or 29th February can be considered as true winter” Denis was quoted saying in one of his earlier interviews.
Meanwhile, Jon SNorri and Mingma Sherpa are facing a cold hell on K2 with the whole mountain covered in blue Ice and weather conditions seemingly more intense than anticipated.
“K2 in winter is not like what we expected” Mingma wrote on his Facebook. “It is extremely cold and windy. Our sleeping bags are frozen, clothes are not dried. Tomorrow some of us will sleep in camp1 and try to set up route to camp2. My 30GB THURAYA internet again encountered problem so i don’t have internet now. No pictures and videos until i am back to city”
Mingma was derided for “feeling too cold” on K2 in winters but it’s easier to ridicule him while sitting in front of the fire place. Weather conditions have been too harsh all over Pakistan this year with more than 100 people have died because of avalanches and snowfall across the northern areas.
The team is gradually working its way up the Abruzzi and has already hauled 250kgs of supplies to Camp-1 at 5800m.
“We are back in BC after long 16 hour day in the mountain” Jon Snorri wrote on his Facebook. “The mountain itself is covered in blue ice. It was difficult and the cold was our worst enemy. Our GPS froze and just turned of, but still we managed to port 250 kg of equipment to C1. We are exhausted and will use tomorrow to rest and gather strength. Now in BC its -24 Celsius and everything is frozen but beautiful weather”
It will be interesting to see how Snorri and Mingma greet Denis and his team on the Abruzzi in about a weeks’ time.