Movement of the climbers is currently stalled at Nanga Parbat where the team of four climbers is attempting to scale the killer mountain for the first time in winters via the Rupal Face. Given the challenges Rupal throws upon the aspiring climbers, the weather has been extremely unfavorable for the past few weeks wasting precious early weeks of January.
David Göttler, who has been on the mountain in winters of 2013-14 seems less than motivated for a summit success for being familiar of the difficulties and the limited time span available on this mountain.
“Spoiler alert! Our chances of success are very, very slim. Nevertheless, since I was here in the winter of 2013/14 I’ve always wanted to come back to this mountain, on this side of it, and in this season. I think we have enough expertise to have a chance, but please just know that so many stars have to align perfectly for us to be in with a fighting chance. I remind myself of this everyday: I want to be full of fire and desire to have a go, but I must keep my expectations true to reality.”David wrote on his Social Media Page on December 26th.
The 44-year-old German climber from Munich was part of the Simone Moro winter dispatch on Nanga in 2013-14 where it was his first Himalayan winter undertaking. He has returned with fond memories of the past.
“I’m enjoying being back on the route I tried in the winter of 2013/14.” David adds. “It’s a bit like seeing an old friend after many years: the terrain has changed here and there, the conditions are different, being here with @hervebarmasse and @mike_d_arnold is different and of course, I am different. I’m excited to see how it will all evolve this time.”
The expedition is being led by the ace Italian climber Hervé Barmasse who seems to be a little surprised with the tough conditions on the mountain.
“Base camp The first few nights I was surprised by the intense cold I felt when I was going to lie down in my sleeping bag. The chills… and the desire to hold on to that little heat that the body is able to produce were the things I was thinking about. Then the cold became a travel companion. If the temperature rises above minus ten degrees, you almost worry and wonder where it ended up. It won’t be lost. And wait for it to come back. Now that the cold and I are friends… we endure each other. In fact, no, we almost love each other!!!”Writes Barmasse on Facebook
Intending to climb in light style Alpine with no fixed ropes, the ambitious team of four has abandoned their initial Messner route and later the Kukuczka Carsolio route in wake of the dangerous overhead seracs and has now moved the Schell Route, the more common route on the Rupal Face of Nanga.